{"id":30637,"date":"2023-05-10T16:29:32","date_gmt":"2023-05-10T15:29:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/?p=30637"},"modified":"2024-11-09T09:57:28","modified_gmt":"2024-11-09T09:57:28","slug":"gpd-win-4-60hz-fix","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/gpd-win-4-60hz-fix\/","title":{"rendered":"GPD Win 4 60Hz fix &#8211; How to install the IC update"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>The below procedure will update the IC on your GPD WIN 4 to resolve the refresh rate bug that has been found in the past few weeks. This GPD Win 4 60Hz fix does involve opening your GPD WIN 4 which can be a little tricky to do so. You will also need to buy a programmer and need another PC to perform the IC update. If you are unsure, do not attempt to open or perform the fix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What parts you will need<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Before starting, there is one absolute rule to follow: <strong>NEVER ATTEMPT TO SOLDER TO THE TEST PADS.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is unnecessary in <em>every<\/em> case and has an extremely high risk of ripping off a pad and making it impossible to fix or recover your GPD Win 4 in the future. It\u2019s happened multiple times now to people who didn\u2019t listen. Don\u2019t join the list!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you follow this rule, it is essentially impossible to permanently brick your screen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Standard parts<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>(You may have these on hand or have things that can be substituted)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Dupont cables: standard 2.54mm spacing, I recommend the ribbon style ones so they stay straight &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/ELEGOO-Breadbord-Jumper-Wires\/dp\/B01EV70C78\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/ELEGOO-Breadbord-Jumper-Wires\/dp\/B01EV70C78<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Pin header blocks: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/MCIGICM-Header-2-45mm-Arduino-Connector\/dp\/B07PKKY8BX\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/MCIGICM-Header-2-45mm-Arduino-Connector\/dp\/B07PKKY8BX<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>0.48mm pogo pins: do a search for \u201cP50-B1\u201d<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Yosoo-Spring-Pressure-P50-B1-0-68mm\/dp\/B019FGHZBG\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Yosoo-Spring-Pressure-P50-B1-0-68mm\/dp\/B019FGHZBG<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Alternatively you can buy a pre-made 3P, single row, 2.54mm programming cable on AliExpress: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.aliexpress.us\/item\/3256802885515922.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.aliexpress.us\/item\/3256802885515922.html<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Programmer<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>There are many different variations of the CH341a programmer. The easiest way to identify them is by PCB color, although there are several different versions of the black PCB CH341a that I know of.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Black, Green, and Blue PCB versions should all work, however you may need to adjust the wiring connections to match the programmer you\u2019re using. (Green PCB programmers seem like they\u2019re difficult to find now). Any CH341a based programmer should work as long as it has I2c connections<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Example black CH341a: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/HiLetgo-Programmer-CH341A-Burner-EEPROM\/dp\/B014VSGH4Y\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/HiLetgo-Programmer-CH341A-Burner-EEPROM\/dp\/B014VSGH4Y<\/a><br>Example blue CH341a: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/NOYITO-CH341A-Serial-Parallel-Converter\/dp\/B082KQ75QM\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/NOYITO-CH341A-Serial-Parallel-Converter\/dp\/B082KQ75QM<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"431\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-1024x431.jpg\" alt=\"Black and blue CH341a programmers\" class=\"wp-image-30639\" style=\"width:768px;height:323px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-1024x431.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-300x126.jpg 300w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-768x324.jpg 768w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-1536x647.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-2048x863.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-450x190.jpg 450w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-780x329.jpg 780w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/CH341a-programmers-1600x674.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Black and blue CH341a programmers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Driver Download<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Although the screen fix ZIP contains drivers for the CH341a, they do not work correctly. The correct drivers are the CH341PAR driver from the link below (thanks pelrun!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>CH341PAR &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.wch.cn\/downloads\/CH341PAR_EXE.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/www.wch.cn\/downloads\/CH341PAR_EXE.html<\/a> <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If things do not work even after installing this driver, check the jumper on your programmer board. It must be on pins 1-2 for the black programmer, and on the I2C position for the blue one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Programmer Assembly<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Tear off 3 strands of dupont cables. We will want to end up with male on one side and female on the other side. If you only have female to female, you can break off a set of 3 pin headers to make it a male end<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Break off a block of 3 pin headers. Remove the metal pins from the plastic block. Try not to crush the plastic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Push the 0.48mm pogo pins through the 3 block of plastic. This should be a snug fit, be careful not to bend or crush the pogo pins as it may damage their spring actuation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once all 3 pogo pins are in place, push them into the female end of the dupont cables<br>Latch down the other (male) end of the cable in the CH341a into pins 13, 14, and 15 (see images below). I have not used a blue CH341a programmer, however I included what should be the correct connections below<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Colours.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"580\" height=\"388\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Colours.png\" alt=\"Programmer Wiring Colours\" class=\"wp-image-30644\" style=\"width:435px;height:291px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Colours.png 580w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Colours-300x201.png 300w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Colours-450x301.png 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Programmer Wiring Colours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Diagram.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"565\" height=\"391\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Diagram.png\" alt=\"Programmer Wiring Diagram\" class=\"wp-image-30649\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Diagram.png 565w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Diagram-300x208.png 300w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Programmer-Wiring-Diagram-450x311.png 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 565px) 100vw, 565px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Programmer Wiring Diagram<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">GPD WIN 4 Disassembly<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Our GPD WIN 4 partial teardown can be used as a guide to open the GPD WIN 4. You only need to watch up to 4:56. Do not disconnect the battery as you will need to power on the device to flash it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"GPD Win 4 partial teardown - 34 minutes of disassembly and chill music!\" width=\"1170\" height=\"658\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/KZZ3cvYW1Z4?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Programming<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Download the IC software package: This mega link contains the software plus the correct drivers and has been re-packaged (thanks _ \u039b\ud835\udccc\uff92 _ !) to prevent confusion while flashing<br><a href=\"https:\/\/mega.nz\/folder\/f1slhTAZ#qQvF8eZFWuFIhtSG3r7TMg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/mega.nz\/folder\/f1slhTAZ#qQvF8eZFWuFIhtSG3r7TMg<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Alternatively, the original download link provided by GPD is:<br><a href=\"https:\/\/drive.google.com\/file\/d\/1dydUaVxUCgKxoSK6Jx4DDm3QH8BDOkEL\/view?usp=share_link\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">https:\/\/drive.google.com\/file\/d\/1dydUaVxUCgKxoSK6Jx4DDm3QH8BDOkEL\/view?usp=share_link<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Verify CH341 connectivity<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Open the \u201c<strong>Upgrade_V7.0.2.exe<\/strong>\u201d application. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you open the application with the CH341a plugged in, you should see a blue \u201c<strong>USB \u2013 I2C ON-LINE<\/strong>\u201d on the bottom right corner, as well as an error message <strong>Get Device Addr \u2026 Failure!<\/strong> \u2013 this is normal. If the bottom right does not say <strong>USB-I2C ON-LINE<\/strong>, check your drivers<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"946\" height=\"620\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software.jpg\" alt=\"UpgradeFlash Software\" class=\"wp-image-30654\" style=\"width:710px;height:465px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software.jpg 946w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software-768x503.jpg 768w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software-450x295.jpg 450w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Software-780x511.jpg 780w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 946px) 100vw, 946px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">UpgradeFlash Software<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Connect the CH341a and program: Note, you will need to have your GPD Win 4 powered on and the screen turned on, to flash successfully. You may want to increase your screen timeout in Windows or boot into the BIOS during the procedure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Press the 3 pogo pins in the correct order against the debug pads as shown above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>*** You must maintain consistent contact with all 3 debug pads with the pogo pins through the entire flashing process ***<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Open the flash app again, if there is good connectivity, this time you should not get the \u201c<strong>Get Device Addr \u2026 Failure!<\/strong>\u201d error message. Check to make sure \u201c<strong>USB \u2013 I2C ON-LINE<\/strong>\u201d is blue at the bottom right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Click the down arrow next to<strong> Prog<\/strong> and select load file. Find the file <strong>win4-LCD_1080x1920_20230426v1.hex<\/strong>. You should now see data in the <strong>Data Display<\/strong> box.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hit the <strong>Prog<\/strong> button. Programming should only take about 5 seconds, there are two progress bars but they go quickly. Once complete, you should see the following in the <strong>Log Display<\/strong>. If the process fails, make sure the screen is still powered on, check for any error messages, and then hit <strong>Prog<\/strong> again. You can do this as many times as necessary &#8211; only the final successful attempt matters.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Log-Display.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"477\" height=\"602\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Log-Display.jpg\" alt=\"UpgradeFlash Log Display\" class=\"wp-image-30659\" style=\"width:358px;height:452px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Log-Display.jpg 477w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Log-Display-238x300.jpg 238w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/UpgradeFlash-Log-Display-450x568.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 477px) 100vw, 477px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">UpgradeFlash Log Display<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Example flashing setup (thanks tson!)<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Flashing-the-GPD-WIN-4-IC.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"763\" height=\"790\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Flashing-the-GPD-WIN-4-IC.jpg\" alt=\"GPD Win 4 60Hz fix in progress\" class=\"wp-image-30664\" style=\"width:572px;height:593px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Flashing-the-GPD-WIN-4-IC.jpg 763w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Flashing-the-GPD-WIN-4-IC-290x300.jpg 290w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Flashing-the-GPD-WIN-4-IC-450x466.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 763px) 100vw, 763px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">GPD Win 4 60Hz fix in progress<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>You\u2019re all done!!! Reboot and now 60Hz should be smooth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Unfortunately, there doesn\u2019t seem to be a way to confirm the IC firmware version directly. An easy way to check is to use one of the many tests at www.testufo.com to confirm proper 60Hz operation. After the IC fix, you should see the same stock 60Hz and 45Hz refresh options in the Windows Display options.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If things have gone wrong, <strong>DON\u2019T PANIC<\/strong>, just read further down this guide to the EMERGENCY RECOVERY INSTRUCTIONS section and follow that.<br><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Adding 40Hz and additional CRU information:<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Custom Resolution Utility (CRU)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you had any previous CRU entries, reset them by running <strong>reset-all.exe<\/strong> in the <strong>CRU <\/strong>folder. This should result in the default 60Hz and 45Hz options being available in Windows display settings<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can check if the firmware update was successful using CRU. After running <strong>reset-all.exe <\/strong>above, open CRU and hit edit on the first entry for 60Hz. You should see the below confirming refresh has been fixed:<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Resolution-Settings.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"731\" height=\"718\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Resolution-Settings.jpg\" alt=\"Resolution Settings\" class=\"wp-image-30669\" style=\"width:548px;height:539px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Resolution-Settings.jpg 731w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Resolution-Settings-300x295.jpg 300w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Resolution-Settings-65x65.jpg 65w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Resolution-Settings-450x442.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 731px) 100vw, 731px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Resolution Settings<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Additionally, you can add 40Hz (or any other refresh rate) using the settings below. (Thanks G Cat!) 60Hz, 45Hz, and 40Hz should all function stutter free after the firmware IC flash.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Detailed-Resolution.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"771\" height=\"597\" src=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Detailed-Resolution.jpg\" alt=\"Detailed Resolution\" class=\"wp-image-30675\" style=\"width:578px;height:448px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Detailed-Resolution.jpg 771w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Detailed-Resolution-300x232.jpg 300w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Detailed-Resolution-768x595.jpg 768w, https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Detailed-Resolution-450x348.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 771px) 100vw, 771px\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Detailed Resolution<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">EMERGENCY RECOVERY INSTRUCTIONS<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>So you got a partial flash and then rebooted anyway, and now the screen won\u2019t turn on?<br>First, DON\u2019T PANIC. You cannot permanently brick the screen unless you physically damage something, for instance soldering to the pads and ripping one off. So don\u2019t do that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The programmer hardware is everything you need to recover from a corrupted firmware, or even a completely blank chip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Above all else, <strong>DO NOT SOLDER TO THE PADS<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Boot the GPD WIN 4 and enter the bios by hitting <strong>DEL<\/strong>. If you have an external monitor then you can confirm this, otherwise you will have to do it blind. This will ensure the GPD Win 4 is powering the panel bridge IC even though the screen will still appear completely blank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Repeat the flashing instructions from the previous section. If it fails, do it again. You can hammer the program button as many times as needed, as you only need it to succeed once.<br>If you still have problems then check all your wires and reposition the pins on the header to try and get a better connection. It <em>will<\/em> work when you get it right.<\/p>\n\n\n<p>[azp_custom_product id=&#8221;34&#8243;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This procedure will update the IC on your GPD WIN 4 to resolve the refresh rate bug that has been found in the past few weeks. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":859,"featured_media":30688,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[21],"tags":[32,681],"class_list":{"0":"post-30637","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-editorials","8":"tag-gpd","9":"tag-gpd-win-4"},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30637","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/859"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=30637"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30637\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":258837,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30637\/revisions\/258837"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/30688"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=30637"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=30637"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/droix.net\/blogs\/ar\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=30637"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}